Season Extension

by Yvette Henson

Earlier this year, March 22, I wrote an article for this blog about season extension and our High Altitude Season Extension research trials in the San Miguel Basin (San Miguel and West Montrose Counties in SW Colorado).  In that article, I said I would post a follow up article about the different crops we have grown under covers and how they have performed.  This is that article. 

We have been conducting season extension trials since 2011.  Our raised bed trial beds are located in Telluride at 8750’ elevation.  Telluride has about a 60 day frost-free growing season from mid to late June till the end of August/early September. In the previous blog post I gave a summary of what we have learned about growing under the different season extension covers that we chose and best uses for each cover based on how crops perform grown under them. 

The materials we chose for our covers are (left to right, in the above photo):  Agribon Ag30, a medium weight (0.9 oz/yd2) spun-bonded polypropylene row cover fabric; Insulated 5mm twin-wall Solexx^TM XP paneling, a flexible polyethylene cover, fitted with an automatic vent opener;  Dio-Betalon (Tuffbell 3800N) polyvinyl alcohol film and no cover for our control bed.  Initially, we layered Dio-Betalon and 30% Row Cover but eventually we added another bed and separated the two layers.

In 2011-2012, 2012-2013 and 2014-2015 we grew different greens ‘through’ the winter.  Eagle County and Teller County collaborated in the first two seasons by growing the same things along with us.  We trialed several different varieties of spinach (Spinacia oleracea), kale (Brassica napus), lamb’s lettuce (Valerianella locusta) and arugula (Eruca sativa).  In 2011, we planted in mid-September, got a very small harvest before the holidays and then started harvesting again in late February or early March.  We learned that mid-August is the better planting time because the plants get more time to establish and we get a better pre-holiday harvest.  All the greens did best under the Solexx cover followed closely by the 30% Row Cover + Dio-betalon layered.  Kale didn’t overwinter well.  Spinach and arugula produced the most with only some winter damage.  The lamb’s lettuce was the hardiest green and the earliest to mature.  It was also the only green that didn’t seem to be affected by day length and temperature.  The other greens would stop growing when the days were the shortest and coldest and would resume growing when days began to get longer in late February.

2012-2014 we grew 7 replications of many different lettuce (Lactuca sativa) varieties at 3 locations. The first year we planted seed in mid-May but by the 3^rd year we had started even earlier – by the 3^rd week in April.  We tried succession planting (2 weeks apart) and overwintering. Overall, 30% Row Cover + Dio-Betalon layered together gave the highest yield but Dio-Betalon alone gave the best quality.  The succession planting worked really well and give a longer season of head lettuce rather than a single large harvest.  We found that the lettuce needed to be about half way mature to overwinter well.  Lettuce loves growing in the mountains!  If you aren’t growing head lettuce give it a try next season.

In 2015 we grew 4 varieties of Open Pollinated carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus).  We direct seeded mid-March and harvested mid-June.  We could have harvested earlier.  We got the best yield and quality of carrots grown under Dio-Betalon, followed by 30% Row Cover.  Both of those covers get better light transmission and don’t get as hot as our Solexx bed.  So, it makes sense that carrots wouldn’t grow as well under Solexx since carrots are cool season crops.  An interesting fact about one of the carrot varieties we grew is that ‘Pusa Asita’ carrots are a short day variety that does well in the cool season of hotter climates.  Short season carrots don’t do well in the mountains.  

2016, we grew 3 varieties of Open Pollinated broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica).  We chose varieties that would produce both heads and side shoots to extend the harvest.  We started the plants from seed and grew them out to seedling stage before we planted them out in mid to late May.  Like carrots, broccoli is a cool season crop so it grew better under the more ventilated covers.  The Dio-Betalon cover produced the earliest and highest yield of heads and the 30% Row Cover produced the highest yield of shoots.  We found we preferred to eat the side shoots rather than the heads—they were tenderer.  Broccoli grows fine with no cover, in fact no cover produced better yield than the Solexx cover.  However, covers give the advantage of an earlier harvest and protection from cabbage worms, etc.

In 2017 we grew 3 varieties of bush green beans (Phaseolus vulgaris).  We also grew a short trial of bush green beans in 2011 and a full trial in 2013, along with summer squash.  The results of the 2017 bush bean trials compared to the 2 earlier trials was so different and we are still trying to figure it out.  But in a nutshell, bush beans grow much, much better under cover than with no cover!  They are warm season crops so the additional heat that some type of cover provides is definitely needed to grow them in the mountains. 

This year we are growing 3 varieties of day-neutral strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa).  It has been a challenging year to try to establish strawberries because of the drought we are experiencing.  We will continue this trial in 2019 after we overwinter the plants under covers.

To summarize and remind you of what I wrote in the March article, growing under cover compared to growing in the open without cover improves the growth and yield of most crops and gives protection against insects, wind and harsh sunlight.  For the warm-season crops we’ve grown (beans, summer squash) most have performed best under Solexx and Dio-Betalon or 30% Row Cover + Dio-Betalon layered.  Cool-season crops (winter greens, lettuces, carrots and broccoli) haven’t done as well under Solexx as the other covers.  Sometimes they even grow better under no cover than under Solexx!  However, Solexx, has yielded earliest cool-season crops making it a good choice to get extra early harvest before it gets too hot in the summer.  It is also better at holding moisture in the soil than the other covers but the humid environment can contribute to disease.  Solexx also tends to get salt buildup in the soil because it doesn’t allow any rainfall through to leach it out.  

The Dio-Betalon cover gives early and good yields of all crops and so is a good choice for both warm season and cool season crops.  Dio-Betalon lets in a lot of light and has produced good quality crops, especially colored lettuces.  We’ve found the soil under this cover can dry out quickly.  Cool-season crops do very well grown under the 30% row cover fabric.  It creates a humid environment, the lushest vegetative growth and helps with seed germination.  However, the moist environment also promotes disease.  Dio-Betalon + 30% Row Cover layered increases the benefits as well as the drawbacks of either cover used alone.  Both together let in less light.  We don’t grow under both layers anymore.  For some cool season crops planted at the recommended time (not extra early) the only benefit of covers is insect and critter control, shade and wind protection.

I’ll be glad to answer any questions you may have about growing under cover and/or the varieties we have grown.  Contact me at Yvette.Henson@colostate.edu

MELIHAT PROSPEK PELUANG USAHA GETAH PINUS SKALA INTERNASIONAL

Hutan mempunyai manfaat penting bagi kehidupan, yaitu adanya hasil hutan berupa kayu dan bukan kayu. Menurut Suharisno (2008), jumlah dari semua kelompok Hasil Hutan Bukan Kayu (HHBK) sebanyak 557 jenis. Namun, yang sudah berkembang dan mendapat perhatian dari pemerintah maupun pengusaha masih terbatas pada sepuluh jenis yang merupakan HHBK unggulan nasional, yaitu: gondorukem, bambu, arang, kemiri, getah jelutung, gambir, sutera alam, lebah, madu, gaharu, dan rotan. Hasil Hutan Bukan Kayu (HHBK) mempunyai kontribusi penting bagi pembangunan berkelanjutan, yaitu kelestarian hutan untuk generasi yang akan datang.

Getah pinus merupakan salah satu HHBK yang dapat diolah menjadi gondorukem dan terpentin. Berdasarkan FAO (2010), Indonesia berada di urutan terbesar ke dua setelah Cina dalam perdagangan getah pinus internasional. Produksi getah dari Cina sebesar 430.000 ton(60% dari total produksi di dunia) sedangkan Indonesia menghasilkan 69.000 ton (10% dari total produksi di dunia). Menurut Perhutani (2006), getah pinus merupakan salah satu komoditi yang memiliki jumlah permintaan tinggi baik di pasar lokal maupun internasional, dimana 80% produksinya dialokasikan untuk kebutuhan ekspor ke Eropa, India, Korea Selatan, Jepang dan Amerika. Berdasarkan data Perhutani (2011), pada tahun 2010, produksi gondorukem Perhutani Indonesia sebesar 55.000 ton dan terpentin sebesar 11.700 ton. Sedangkan permintaan gondorukem di dunia naik sampai 1 juta ton per tahun. Oleh karena itu, produksi gondorukem Indonesia untuk tahun 2011 ditargetkan sebesar 65.000 ton dan terpentin 15.000 ton. Permintaan getah pinus di Indonesia maupun di dunia semakin meningkat. Oleh karena itu, perlu dilakukan upaya untuk meningkatkan produktivitas getah pinus di Indonesia.

Rumusan Masalah

1. Darimana getah pinus berasal dan bagaimana karakteristik fisiknya?
2. Apa saja manfaat dari getah pinus?
3. Bagaimana cara memproleh getah pinus?
4. Bagaimana peluang usaha getah pinus di pasar industri domestik dan internasional?
5. Apa saja yang menjadi hambatan dalam usaha produksi hetah pinus?

Tujuan

1. Mengetahui karakteristik cara produksi getah pinus

2. Menganalisa peluang usaha getah pinus dalam pasar industri domestik dan internasional.

1. Getah Pinus

Produk HHNK menjadi produk kehutanan yang paling dimininati. Selain itu, pemanfaatan HHNK bersifat lestari dan tidak terlalu merusak kawasan hutan sehingga menjadi salah satu solusi pengelolaan hutan yang lestari. Salah satu produk HHNK yang mengalami peningkatan di pasar industri ialah getah pinus. Getah pinus biasa dimanfaatkan untuk diolah menjadi gonderukem dan terpentin. Getah pinus dihasilkan dari getah pinus dengan proses penyadapan.

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Pinus merkusii dapat dijumpai di Kalimantan dan Sumatera, terutama di Sumatera dan Aceh dari 200 – 1700 mdpl, terdapat pada tanah – tanah yang tak subur dan bergerumbul. Ketinggian pohon dapat mencapai 70 meter dengan diameter 145 cm. Tajuknya sangat ringan, jenis cahaya, daun jarumnya gugur terus – menerus, meneruskan cahaya banyak sekali. Pinus merupakan salah satu jenis tanaman tropis. Untuk menghasilkan pertumbuhan yang baik, pinus membutuhkan antara lain :

1. Tanah yang cukup kesuburannya, walaupun unsur hara yang dipergunakan pinus relatif rendah dibandingkan jenis pohon dalam lebar.
2. Tanah yang tidak terlalu asam (pt 4,5 – 5,5 ).Getah yang dihasilkan pohon Pinus merkusii digolongkan sebagai oleoresin yang merupakan cairan asam-asam resin dalam terpentin yang menetes keluar apabila saluran resin pada kayu atau kulit pohon jenis jarum tersayat atau pecah. Penamaan oleoresin ini dipakai untuk membedakan getah pinus dari getah alamiah (natural resin) yang muncul kulit atau terdapat dalam rongga-rongga jaringan kayu sebagai genus dari anggota famili Dipterocarpaceae, Leguminoceae, dan Caesalpiniaceae.Getah yang berasal dari pohon Pinus berwarna kuning pekat dan lengket, yang terdiri dari campuran bahan kimia yang kompleks. Unsur-unsur terpenting yang menyusun getah pinus adalah asam terpen dan asam abietic. Campuran bahan tersebut larut dalam alcohol, bensin, ether, dan sejumlah pelarut organic lainnya, tetapi tidak larut dalam air. Selain itu dari hasil penyulingan getah Pinus merkusii rata-rata dihasilkan 64% gondorukem, 22,5% terpentin, dan 12,5% kotoran.

Saluran getah resin bukan merupakan bagian dari kayu, tetapi berupa rongga yang dikelilingi oleh sel-sel parenkimatis atau sel epitel. Seluruh lapisan yang mengelilingi saluran resin disebut epitellium. Ada beberapa cara dalam pembentukan saluran getah, diantaranya yaitu :

a. Lysegeneous

Yaitu beberapa sel parenkim yang berdekatan hancur sehingga isinya tercampur, maka terbentuk rongga yang kemudian terisi cairan. Rongga ini dibtasi oleh sel-sel yang tidak hancur, dimana sel-sel yang tidak hancur ini dapat menjadi sel epitel. Proses semacam ini disebut gummosis.

b. Schizogeneous

Yaitu beberapa sel parenkim memisahkan diri melalui lamella tengah sehingga terjadi suatu saluran yang dikelilingi oleh belahan sel-sel parenkim yang menjadi sel epitel. Sedangkan produksi getah pinus secara keseluruhan dipengaruhi oleh :

• Luas areal sadapan.
• Kerapatan (jumlah pohon per Ha).
• Jumlah koakan tiap pohon dan jangka waktu pelukaan.
• Sifat individu pohon.
• Keterampilan tenaga kerja penyadap.
• Prinsip keluarnya getah dari luka adalah sebagai berikut : saluran getah pada semua sisi dikelilingi oleh jaringan parenkim diantara saluran getah dan sel-sel parenkim terdapat keseimbangan osmotik. Jika dibuat luka pada batang pinus sehingga saluran getahnya terbuka, maka tekanan dinding berkurang akibatnya getah keluar.

2. Manfaat Getah Pinus

Getah Pinus merupakan bahan baku dari pembuatan Gondorukem dan Terpentin.Kegunaan Gondorukem yang selama ini dikenal awam adalah sebagai bahan proses pembuatan batik dan bahan untuk melekatkan patri atau solder. Namun kenyataannya gondorukem mempunyai kegunaan lain yang bernilai ekonomis tinggi yaitu : Untuk pelapis kertas, bahan additive, tinta printing, industri ban, isolasi alat elektronik, cat, vernis, plastik, sabun. semir sepatu, keramik. lem dan lain lain.

Dari penelusuran online, diketahui getah pinus itu bisa menghasilkan minyak terpentin biasanya digunakan sebagai pelarut untuk mengencerkan cat minyak, bahan campuran vernis yang biasa kita gunakan untuk mengkilapkan permukaan kayu dan bisa untuk bahan baku kimia lainnya.

Aroma terpentin harum seperti minyak kayu putih, karena keharumannya itu terpentin bisa digunakan untuk bahan pewangi lantai atau pembunuh kuman bahan baku pembuat parfum, bisa bermanfaat untuk kesehatan yaitu untuk relaksasi bila digunakan sebagai bahan campuran minyak pijat. Selanjutnya sebagai salah satu bahan tambahan pembuatan permen karet sehingga menjadi kenyal dan lentur dan aman untuk kesehatan. Getah pinus juga sebagai bahan baku tinta, cat, wipol, kosmetik, tiner, makanan hingga campuran bahan bakar pesawat luar angkasa.

3. Metode Produksi Getah Pinus pada Pohon Pinus

Getah pinus berada pada batang dimana didalam saluran getah yang arahnya vertical ( longitudinal ) maupun horizontal ( radial ). Saluran getah ini terbentuk secara lisigen, sizogen, maupun sizoligen. Beberapa ketentuan pohon pinus yang akan disadap :

• Diameter limit cupping, diameter pohon pinus yang akan dsadap adalah diatas 15cm.
• Selective cupping, pohon-pohon yang akan disadap adalah pohon yang waktu mendatang dijarangi atau ditebang yaitu sejak umur 10 tahun samapai pada daur tebangan atau umur penjarangan. Biasanya dilakukan pada perusahan pengelolaan pinus yang menggunakan pinus untuk berbagai kegunaan.

Beberapa cara teknik penyadapan :

• Bentuk koakanTeknik ini dilakukan denagn cara mengerok kulot batang lebih dulu, kemudian kayunya dilukai sedalam 1-2 cm, sedang lebarnya 10 cm. Pelukaan dengan cara ini membentuk huruf U terbalik dengan jarak dari permukaan tanah sekitar 15-20 cm. Pelukaan yang baru diatas luka lama dengan tebal jarak 5 mm.
• Bentuk V Teknik ini hamper sama dengan teknik diatas tetapi berbebtuk huruf V. dapat juga dimodifikasi menjadi V ganda atau seri arah keatas ( rill) yang bentuknya seperti sirip ikan.
• Goresan atau guratana; Cara ini pada penyadapan pinus jarang dilakukan, umumnya dilakukan pada agathis ( kopal ). Hal ini mengimgat kulit pinus yang tebal. Goresan dilakukan dengan kemiringan 45° atau melingkar.
• Dengan bor; Dengan syarat diameter 3 cm, 3-12 cm keatas atau kedalam.
• Dari keempat teknik tersebut yang paling efektif atau paling banyak menghasilkan getah pinus adlah dengan menggunakan metode koakan, kemuidian teknik bentuk V dan teknik bor.

Berikut ini urutan penyadapan untuk koakan pada pinus :

• Mula-mula kulit batang pada tempat yang akan dibuat pelukaan dibersihkan selebar 10-12 cm kearah atas dimulai dari bawah.
• Kualitas Getah Pinus; Kualitas getah pinus sadapandibedakan atas dua kelas yaitu :

1. Mutu A

• Berwarna putih bening
• Tidak ada campuran tanah/lumpur dan kotoran lain (kandungan kotoran kurang dari 2%)
• Kadar air kurang dari 3 %

2. Mutu B

• Berwarna keruh –coklat
• Ada campuran tanah dal lumpur (kandungan kotoran 2-5%)
• Kadar air lebih dari 3%

Produk getah yang tidak memenuhi ketentuan kelas kualitas tersebut diatas ditolak untuk diterima.

4. Peluang Usaha Getah Pinus

Warga Pasaman, Sumatera Barat, mulai melirik potensi usaha lainnya untuk meningkatkan perekonomian mereka. Yaitu, aktivitas penyadapan getah pohon pinus sebagai salah satu potensi usaha menjanjikan dari sekian potensi lainnya. Meskipun belum terlihat, namun penyadapan getah pinus di daerah ini mulai tampak menjanjikan. Hal itu karena dinilai mampu menjadi salah satu alternatif peningkatan sumber pendapatan bagi warga. Menurut Afitin, saat ini potensi getah pohon pinus di kawasan hutan konversi Kabupaten Pasaman mencapai 30 ton tiap bulannya dari 240 hektare lahan tanaman pinus di daerah itu. Harga getah pinus saat ini mencapai Rp75 ribu per kilogramnya. Rata-rata per orang mampu mengeluarkan getah pinus sebanyak 30 kilogram. saat ini Perhutani memegang rekor terbesar sebagai produsen Gumrosin dan getah pinus di Asia Tenggara. Meski sebagai produsen terbesar, ke depan kompetisi makin kuat. 

Produk gondorukem memiliki prospek yang cukup bagus. Tetapi, ia mengakui krisis ekonomi yang terjadi di Eropa saat ini membuat pasar gondorukem fluktuatif dan kurang kondusif untuk perdagangan. Adapun, produksi gondorukem tiap tahunnya mencapai 55.000 ton.

Dari keseluruhan produk gondorukem milik Perhutani, hanya 20% yang diserap pasar lokal, sedangkan 80% untuk ekspor. Perhutani memiliki pasar ekspor Asia dan Eropa. Untuk Asia, pasar ekspor terbesar adalah Jepang dan India. Sedangkan untuk Eropa, produk gondorukem Perhutani terbesar adalah Jerman.

5. Masalah Produksi dan Pemasaran Getah Pinus

Indonesia menjadi negara terbesar ketiga setelah China dan Brasil untuk kontribusi produksi gondorukem di dunia. Volume produk gondorukem Indonesia yang diperdagangkan setiap tahun sekitar 90.000 ton. Sebelumnya Industri Kecil dan Menengah (IKM), khususnya produsen batik mulai kesulitan mendapatkan bahan baku. Selama ini, pasokan gondorukem atau getah pohon pinus yang merupakan salah satu bahan penguat warna dalam pembuatan batik, banyak yang diekspor.

Faktor modal merupakan faktor yang penting dan tidak bisa diabaikan begitu saja. Kelancaran kegiatan penyadapan ini, mulai proses pembelian getah dari penyadap secara kontan untuk tiap satu kali penimbangan per bulan hingga proses pengolahan dan penjualan dalam bentuk produk jadi, sangat bergantung pada ketersediaan modal yang cukup besar, minimal harus memiliki modal dua kali lipat karena dua pekerjaan ditangani sendiri, yaitu kegiatan produksi dan penjualan.

KESIMPULAN

1. Getah pinus berasal dari pohon pinus (Pinus merkusii) yang tergolong aleoresin yakni resin yang bersifat asam.
2. Getah pinus banyak dimanfaatkan sebagai bahan baku industri dan umumnya diolah menjadi gondorukem atau terpentin.
3. Cara pemanenan getah pinus dilakukan dengan menyadap pohon dengan metode koakan yang umum sudah umum dipakai.
4. Getah pinus memiliki peluang bisnis yang baik karena telah banyak dipergunakan pada industri,
5. Pemasokan getah pinus di pasar masih terbatas dan diperlukan modal yang cukup besar untuk memproduksi dan memasarkannya.

Oleh : Wulandhari Aritonang

What to do with all the Bounty! (canning)

“My mom put up lots of fruits and vegetables but never showed me how,” my friend said wistfully as she helped me prepare peaches for the canner.  “Even my in-laws canned but always said it was too much work and I wouldn’t want to do it.”  I put that sentiment in the same disappointing category as not sharing the European language my parents spoke at home when I was growing up because they didn’t want us to start school “sounding foreign.”  Fortunately, we were a 4H family and food preservation was just what everyone did in summer and fall.  There were community packing/processing plants that welcomed the public and even provided “seconds” (blemished or off-size fruits) for pennies that we peeled, cut, and placed into cans for their facility to safely process.  The local 4H food preservation instructor let my city-raised mother join us kids to learn the art and science of preserving nature’s bounty for the lean times. 

Too much work, you say?  Yep, it takes some time, planning and some specialized equipment, but there’s a certain magic to opening a jar of local peaches in the dead of winter and tasting summer.  My step daughters help in the process without me even asking because they want peach jam that tastes of peaches (not sugar syrup), or crunchy pickles with garlic from our garden, or applesauce from apples they prepped with our silly corer/peeler tool. 

Too dangerous you say – all that risk of botulism?  I still reference my mom’s heavily annotated Sunset and extension publications for ideas (and to see mom’s handwriting before I try to channel her endless kitchen energy), but I stick strictly to the processing times and modern lower-sugar syrup recipes found in the CSU Extension Service publications.  “Canning can be dangerous if tested methods are not followed, and this is especially true in Colorado,” says Extension Specialist Marisa Bunning of CSU, “because adjustments often need to be made for elevation. Many canning recipes available to the public do not account for higher elevation, and that can lead to food spoilage or even contamination with botulism toxin. Although it is critically important to adjust for elevation to ensure the temperature is adequate to destroy bacterial spores, this is a science lesson that is not very well-known.”

Now here is where the wonderful CSU Food Science and Human Nutrition department and Extension experts have really outdone themselves:  there’s an app for this!  Preserve Smart is available for both Apple and Android platforms and there is an online version as well at https://apps.chhs.colostate.edu/preservesmart/.  The app focuses on food preservation methods and basics. Users can choose whether they want to preserve fruits or vegetables, and then select their particular type of produce. Preservation options vary depending on the type of produce, but include freezing, canning, drying and making spreadable preserves, like jams and jellies.  Preserve Smart differs from any food preservation magazine or book because it allows users to set their elevation before starting the preservation process. Elevation needs to be taken into account when canning, especially in Colorado and other high elevation locations, because if not done correctly, it can be a serious health threat.

Too much equipment needed?  Not really, and what you don’t already have in your kitchen is all available locally at our hardware, grocery and even thrift stores. You’ll need a water-bath canner:  this is a large enamel pot with a rack in the bottom to hold the jars.  If you’re going to tackle acidic fruits like tomatoes (more advanced food preservation) you’ll want a pressure cooker.  A jar lifter is a nice tool as it makes lifting full jars easier and safer; a plastic canning funnel is a necessity in my book.  An enamel Dutch Oven or heavy stock pot is needed to cook the fruit or syrup, a pasta pot is nice to sanitize jars and rims, and a small sauce pan is needed to boil the lids.  Lots of towels, some kitchen tongs, sharp paring knives, mixing bowls, a ladle, large spoons, and oven mitts are also needed.  You’ll want pectin for jams and jellies and there are low/no sugar brands out there.

Now – jars!  There’s a dizzying array of jars out there these days and I’ve seen good used ones at our thrift store for pennies:  4-ounce jelly jars to 2-quart spaghetti sauce monsters.  The boiling water in your canner needs to be at least an inch above the jars when you process so take the depth of your canner into consideration when buying jars.  There are two choices of openings: standard and wide mouth.  Wide mouth are easier to pour and place through.  Also consider the serving size of a jar and how long it will take to use the contents once it has been opened.  A quart of peaches doesn’t last long at our house, but a pint of jam will go bad because we are only using a tablespoon at a time.  I tend to use pints and quarts for whole or sliced fruits and 4-oz and half pint jars for jams and compotes.  For gifts – and who doesn’t love a homemade jar of jam at Christmas – smaller jars will give you more goodies.

Finally – rims and lids.  Just like the jars, these come in regular and wide mouth and they are 2-piece: the rim is a metal band and the lid is a flat metal disk with a rubber seal that sits on the jar rim. You can reuse jars and rust-less rims, but never reuse lids.  Lids and rims and can be purchased together and separately.

Of course, there are lots more details and every recipe has its own requirements – but it is all in the app.  Remember - there is just nothing like the taste of summer during a snow storm, or your own jalapeno jelly on cream cheese at the holidays, or wrapping up your homemade preserves to give to friends at Christmas.  The latter is a tradition my mother started when we both learned to can, and everyone looked forward to her creations.  Luckily for us, the CSU Extension is making it safe and convenient to apply the science – it’s up to you to add the art.  Download Preserve Smart today and get started!

Jackie Buratovich was raised in a central California farm family and loves making things grow in and around a solar home here in Routt County.  She received her Master Gardener training in Boulder County in 2003, and acknowledges that while growing conditions here are more challenging, being back in an agricultural community is like coming home and being able to grow greens outside all summer long is a bonus!

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Bawang merah merupakan tanaman yang banyak membutuhkan hara, baik pada masa pertumbuhan vegetatif atau juga saat pembentukan, pembesaran dan pematangan umbi.

Pemupukan yang dilakukan harus tepat jenis, tepat waktu, tepat cara dan tepat kombinasi.

Pemupukan yang tepat juga merupakan salah satu cara penting untuk meningkatkan ketahanan tanaman terhadap serangan hama dan patogen penyebab penyakit pada tanaman bawang merah.

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Tanaman bawang merah banyak menyerap unsur hara makro dari dalam tanah seperti Nitrogen (N), Phosphor (P) dan Kalium (K). Namun unsur-unsur tersebut tidak selalu tersedia di dalam tanah disebabkan sistem budi daya yang terus-menerus dilakukan.

Dalam budi daya bawang merah, diperlukan pemupukan sebanyak tiga kali. Yaitu pada saat pengolahan lahan dan pemeliharaan tanaman.

Pemupukan Pertama atau Pemupukan Dasar Tanaman Bawang Merah

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Pemupukan pertama diberikan bersama ketika pengolahan tanah atau sebelum dilakukan penanaman bibit bawang merah. Pupuk disebar di atas bedengan lalu diaduk merata dengan tanah.

Jenis pupuk yang digunakan adalah NPK Mutiara (16:16:16) 500 kg, SP 36 sebanyak 50-100 kg dan KCl 30-60 kg untuk dosis aplikasi per hektarnya. Untuk pemupukan pertama ini jika akan menambahkan pupuk kompos atau pupuk kandang, dosis NPK Mutiara (16:16:16) dapat dikurangi menjadi 250 kg/ha.

Alasan menggunakan pupuk ini adalah karena unsur P dan K sulit larut sehingga perlu waktu (minimal 14 hari) agar unsur tersebut dapat diserap tanaman.

Pada umur 7 hari akar tanaman bawang mulai tumbuh dan membutuhkan unsur tersebut untuk perkembangannya. Unsur P dan K dari NPK, SP 36 dan KCl akan tersedia bagi tanaman sepanjang pertumbuhan bawang merah.

Pemupukan Susulan Pertama Tanaman Bawang Merah

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Selanjutnya, pemupukan susulan pertama diberikan saat tanaman berumur 10-15 hst dengan jenis pupuk Urea 180 kg/ha atau ZA 400 kg/ha.

Aplikasi pupuk bisa dengan cara ditebar di atas bedengan.

Pemupukan ini bertujuan untuk memberikan cadangan makanan bagi umbi karena pada umur 15-30 hst cadangan makanan umbi cepat habis sehingga perlu unsur N dan S untuk pembentukan daun, batang dan akar.

Pupuk Susulan Kedua Tanaman Bawang Merah

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Pupuk susulan kedua diberikan saat tanaman berumur 30-35 hst dengan jenis pupuk Urea 180 kg/ha. Pada umur-umur ini tanaman memasuki fase pembentukan umbi, sehingga memerlukan karbohidrat hasil fotosintesis sebagai bahan pembentukan umbi.

Unsur N dari Urea digunakan dalam proses fotosintesis untuk pembentukan karbohidrat.

Pemberian pupuk susulan perlu diiukuti dengan penyiraman apabila diperkirakan tidak terjadi hujan. Di samping itu dapat pula diberikan pupuk hayati sesuai anjuran apabila tersedia sehingga bisa mengurangi pemakaian pupuk kimia.

Perlu diingat, pemupukan tanaman bawang merah disetiap daerah tidak sama tergantung tingkat kesuburan tanah.

CARA YANG TEPAT PEMUPUKAN PADA BUDIDAYA TANAMAN BAWANG MERAH

Untuk itu jika Anda akan melakukan pemupukan harus melihat kondisi tanah dan tanaman terlebih dahulu.

Pupuk dengan jenis dan dosis di atas merupakan contoh yang digunakan oleh Pusat Penelitian dan Pengembangan Hortikultuta, Kementerian Pertanian.

Referensi:

hortikultura.litbang.pertanian.go.id

bawangbawangan.com

anakagronomy.com

Tough Plants

by Vicki Barney

The north side of my house is a poor spot for a garden, receiving very little sun and used for winter snow storage.   When a number of plants sprouted here, I was surprised.  They must be tough plants.

Utility workers disturbed this inhospitable area a few years back and subsequently, it was graveled. A few weeds sprang up, mainly prostrate knotweed and prickly lettuce, but no worrisome weeds.  In the middle of the gravel, flowering plants appeared: Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), and Spreading dogbane (Apocynum androsaemifolium).  These plants grow elsewhere without my help and tend to be aggressive but, since they are thriving and draw pollinators, they are welcome here.

Nothing grew in the least hospitable spot - along the wall – until this last spring.  Graveled and shady most of the time, it receives a little moisture as it is directly under the roof’s dripline.  Surprisingly, this little bit of moisture has created an attractive environment for some really tough plants.

Tough columbine

Beautiful Columbine (Aquilegiaspp.) was the first to appear. I inadvertently planted it when seeds I had collected for another project scattered in the wind.  The plant appeared in several spots and produced stunning flowers in light blue and white.  Bloom time varied with the location of each plant; those in colder and shadier locations blooming later than the others, and all later than those planted in garden areas.   The last one to bloom displayed a completely white flower in late July. Liking their roots cool and shaded, these Columbine plants seem to have found a good home and still have green leaves.

The fastest growing plant is a currant, which likely is a Golden Currant (Ribes aureum).  It is about 3 feet tall and has 4 sturdy stems with bright green leaves and must have sprouted from seed from the Golden currant shrub around the corner.  If it survives the poor conditions, it could spread by rhizome and become a pretty hedge with yellow blossoms for early arriving pollinators.  A hedge would be welcome here.

Creeping Oregon grape

Much less noticeable but also welcome is a Creeping Oregon grape (Mahonia repens or Berberis repens). It too must have grown by seed from nearby plants and has produced several holly-shaped spiny leaves.  Either sprawling or compact, it would be an attractive addition with its bright yellow flowers, blue berries, and leaves in colors of red and green.  Hopefully it too will survive here.

Not surprisingly, Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) is also growing here.  I imagine Serviceberry roots blanket my yard as the shrub has extensive root systems and sprouts everywhere.  A few small stems with oval leaves are visible and will need to be monitored before their 6 to 10 foot size overtakes the area.  In spite of this, it is welcome since its pretty white blossoms and dark blue berries attract wildlife.

Serviceberry

I have one mystery plant that is sprouting elsewhere in my yard.  It is composed of a single stem with compound leaves made up of oval, slightly toothed leaflets that are opposite compound and in opposing pairs. I believe it is some sort of ash tree, seeded from a neighboring tree.  Until identified, it is not welcome.

Seeing these plants emerge and thrive is fascinating and encourages me to experiment with planting in other inhospitable areas.  It will be interesting to see who survives this hot, dry summer and long winter.

Vicky Barney gardens for wildlife and is a member of the Master Gardener Class of 2011.

Indian Paint Brush of the Rocky Mountains

by Ed Powers

   As many of our readers know I travel areas of the Rocky Mountains annually and enjoy the abundant flora at all elevations.  I have really fallen love with the Indian Paint Brush flowers.  The plants are simple but the flowers are amazing and they come in several colors. Originally, I thought the different colors were a result of the altitude and soil condition, but I have come to learn each color is a different species.

   Indian paintbrush flowers are named for the clusters of spiky blooms that resemble paintbrushes dipped in bright red or orange-yellow paint. Growing this wildflower can add interest to the native garden. About the Indian paintbrush, also known as Castilleja, Indian paintbrush wildflowers grow in forest clearings and grasslands across the Western and Southwestern United States. Indian paintbrush is a biennial plant that usually develops rosettes the first year and stalks of blooms in spring or early summer of the second year. The plant is short-lived and dies after it sets seed. However, if conditions are right, Indian paintbrush reseeds itself every autumn. This unpredictable wildflower grows when it is planted in close proximity with other plants, primarily grasses or native plants such as penstemon or blue-eyed grass. This is because Indian paintbrush sends roots out to the other plants, then penetrates the roots and “borrows” nutrients it needs in order to survive. They are hemiparasitic on the roots of grasses and forbs.  Indian paintbrush tolerates cold winters but it doesn’t perform well in the USDA zones 8 and above, which is interesting because I find them above 9,000’ and I can’t seem to grow them in Evergreen, at 7,600’, zones 3 & 4.

   Castilleja, commonly known as Indian paintbrush or prairie-fire, is a genus of about 200 species of annual and perennial herbaceous plants native to the west of the Americas from Alaska south to the Andes, northern Asia, and one species as far west as the Kola Peninsula in northwestern Russia. These plants are classified in the broomrape family. The generic name honors Spanish botanist Domingo Castillejo.

   The flowers of Indian paintbrush are edible, and were consumed in moderation by various Native American tribes as a condiment with other fresh greens. These plants have a tendency to absorb and concentrate selenium in their tissues from the soils in which they grow, and can be potentially very toxic if the roots or green parts of the plant are consumed. Highly alkaline soils increase the selenium levels in the plants. Indian paintbrush has similar health benefits to consuming garlic if only the flowers are eaten in small amounts and in moderation.
 
The Ojibwe Tribes used a hair wash made from Indian paintbrush to make their hair glossy and full bodied, and as a treatment for rheumatism. The high selenium content of this plant has been cited as the reason for its effectiveness for these purposes. Nevada Indian tribes used the plant to treat sexually transmitted diseases and to enhance the immune system.


   Castilleja linariifolia is the state flower of Wyoming, and will grow well in the Rockies of Colorado.

Reference - CSU Fact sheets and Garden Notes
Grow Native - Missouri Prairie Foundation

Currant Appeal

by Vicky Barney

The berry shrubs are loaded with fruit this year, most noticeably the serviceberry, whose branches are drooping under the weight.  In the wild and in my yard, I’m looking forward to watching the berries disappear and will be paying particular attention to my currants.

Golden Currant

Currants (Ribes spp.) are deciduous shrubs with 3-5 lobed leaves and edible tart fruit historically used by Native Americans for food and medicinal purposes.   In my yard, two shrubs have the distinctive leaves and berries, and similar looking arching branches.  Their pea sized berries are growing in small clusters, each with a “pigtail” which is the remnant of its flower.  Both shrubs are thorn less, drought tolerant, and, to date, of no interest to deer, moose, or bear.  But the shrubs have some differences that lead me to think they are different varieties of currant. 

On the east side of my yard, a small currant shrub is growing.  About 3 feet in size, it is has pretty bright green 5 lobed leaves and arching branches.  The spring flowers are inconspicuous but the berries are beautiful this time of year: bright red and clustered.  They are also tasteless.  I believe the shrub is a variety of the non-native Red currant (Ribes rubrum).

Red Currant

Red currant is native to Europe and has been widely cultivated, both for fruit production and for landscaping purposes.  It prefers cool soil temperatures with full sun and fertile loamy soil.  My red currant is planted in a partly sunny area and is growing at a pleasant pace. It might produce flavorful berries if the shrub received more sunshine, water, and fertilizer, or it may be an ornamental variety with berries designed for looks rather than taste.

On the west side of my yard, the currant shrub is much larger (over 6 feet tall).  It produced numerous fragrant, trumpet shaped yellow flowers in mid-May, providing early season food for pollinators.  I believe it is Golden currant (Ribes aureum), a native to most of North America.  Once the flowers faded, the shrub blended into the landscape with its bright green 3 lobed leaves.  Inconspicuous berries appeared recently, orange at first and then turning black. The berries are quite tart and are disappearing, likely feeding the birds.

Golden Currant

Golden currant prefers well drained soil in sun to part shade.  My shrub is situated on a slope that receives midday sun and very little water.  For a time, I aggressively pruned the sprawling shrub to allow the sun to shine on other plants.  It responded well to the pruning and became more attractive.  In fact, some currants grow better with regular pruning of older branches.  I also discovered the shrub spreads by rhizomes, sending up shoots in the neighborhood and forcing me to continually evaluate the size of my currant “patch.”

In our area, the Red currant is a more attractive and easier shrub to grow, but it appears to have no wildlife visitors – no pollinators and no one eating the berries.  Conversely, the native Golden currant, with its early flowers and little tart berries, has been humming with activity and loses berries every day.  For that reason, periodic pruning and keeping its spread in check is worth the effort, and watching both shrubs over the next few months to see who comes to visit will be quite interesting.

Vicky Barney gardens for wildlife and is a member of the Master Gardener Class of 2011.

CARA PEMBERIAN PUPUK PADA TANAMAN

Untuk mendapatkan hasil pemupukan yang memuaskan, tidak hanya penting memakai dosis pupuk yang tepat saja tetapi juga penting diketahui cara pengunaan pupuknya. Dengan berkembangnya teknologi pertanian dan industri, telah melahirkan berbagai produk yang cara pemberiannya lain dari biasanya, namun secara garis besar dapat dikelompokkan menjadi dua cara pemberian/memupuk, yakni:

• Memupuk dengan cara pemberian melalui akar
• Memupuk dengan cara pemberian melalui daun

1. Memupuk melalui akar

Yaitu segala macam pupuk yang diberikan kepada tanaman lewat akar. Tujuannya tentu sudah jelas, yakni mengisi tanah dengan hara yang dibutuhkan oleh tanaman, supaya tanaman yang ditanam di atasnya tumbuh subur dan memberikan hasil yang memuaskan. Pada umumnya pemberian pupuk melalui akar dapat dilakukan secara:

1. Disebar (broad casting)

Pupuk yang disebarkan merata pada tanah-tanah di sekitar pertanaman atau pada waktu pembajakan/penggaruan terakhir, sehari sebelum tanam, kemudian diinjak-injak agar pupuk masuk ke dalam tanah. Beberapa pertimbangan untuk menggunakan cara ini adalah:

• Tanaman ditanam pada jarak tanam yang rapat, baik teratur dalam barisan maupun tidak teratur dalam barisan
• Tanaman mempunyai akar yang dangkal atau berada pada dekat dengan permukaan tanah
• Tanah mempunyai kesuburan yang relatif baik
• Pupuk yang dipakai cukup banyak atau dosis permukaan tinggi
• Daya larut pupuk besar, karena bila daya larutnya rendah maka yang diambil tanaman sedikit

Cara pemupukan ini biasanya digunakan untuk memupuk tanaman padi, kacang-kacangan dan lain-lain yang mempunyai jarak tanam rapat. Kerugian cara ini ialah merangsang pertumbuhan rumput pengganggu/gulma dan kemungkinan pengikatan unsur hara tertentu oleh tanah lebih tinggi.

2. Ditempatkan di antara larikan/barisan

Pupuk ditaburkan di antara larikan tanaman dan kemudian ditutup kembali dengan tanah. Untuk tanaman tahunan ditaburkan melingkari tanaman dengan jarak tegak lurus daun terjauh (tajuk daun) dan ditutup kembali dengan tanah. Cara ini dilakukan dengan pertimbangan-pertimbangan sebagai berikut:

• Pupuk yang digunakan relatif sedikit
• Jarak tanam antara tanaman yang dipupuk cukup jarang dan jarak antara barisan pertanaman cukup jarang
• Kesuburan tanah rendah
• Tanaman dengan perkembangan akarnya yang sedikit
• Untuk tanah tegalan atau darat
• Bila mengkhawatirkan akan terjadi pengikatan unsur hara oleh tanah dalam jumlah yang cukup besar

3. Ditempatkan dalam lubang

Pupuk dibenamkan ke dalam lubang di samping batang sejauh kurang lebih 10 cm dan ditutup dengan tanah. Untuk tanaman tahunan pupuk dibenamkan ke dalam lubang pupuk yang melingkari tanaman dengan jarak tegak lurus dan terjauh (tajuk daun) dan ditutup kembali dengan tanah. Cara ini dilakukan dengan pertimbangan sama dengan cara larikan/barisan.
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Sharing my garden

by Vicky Barney

There’s something magical about seeing butterflies and hummingbirds feasting on flower nectar, or watching birds foraging for berries.  Observing a bear, moose, or deer browsing on aspen or berries is a real treat.  But when their browsing removes the flowers intended for pollinators or the berries for the birds, or when all the strawberries disappear from the carefully tended patch, the magic is gone. My “gardening for wildlife” strategy needs some work.

Butterfly visiting garden

My yard is surrounded by native shrubs and trees and was an attractive feature when purchasing the house several years ago.  I imagined watching wildlife pass through the yard from one wild space to the next, stopping to nibble aspen volunteers or newly planted native bushes. The plan was to create a place where wildlife would linger, preferably while I was watching.  Red-osier dogwood was planted (deer and elk’s “ice cream bush,” says Karen Vail in Edible & Medicinal Plants of the Southern Rockies), grassy spots were encouraged, and game trail openings were preserved.   Success!  Deer and moose have been observed, sometimes eating and resting for long periods.  Bears have also been observed munching on native berries just beyond the tended yard.

Recently, though, visitors have come through after dark, pruning flowers, pulling up newly planted pansies and devouring my small crop of strawberries covered by bird netting.  They are welcome but I prefer they browse along their path, the one lined with tasty native bushes and flowers.  The wildlife – deer, I presume - have other ideas.

Deer candy

But is it deer in the strawberry patch?  There is no evidence they have browsed there – no prints and no torn leaves.  In fact, the patch looks untouched except for the missing berries.  Early one morning I frightened a flock of birds and realized they are the culprits.  They have learned to pluck the berries out of the netting that deterred them last season, and they have a quick getaway now that the nearby bushes have grown.

The more worrisome browsers in my yard are the deer.  They consume pretty blossoms, leaving behind shorn branches and torn leaves.  To be sure there is enough forage left over for butterflies and birds, I need to make a few changes.

Garden Design - Small modifications in design may discourage undesirable behavior.  For example, cutting back the bushes near the strawberry patch – reducing the birds’ safety zone – may reduce bird activity.  Moving the pansy pots onto the patio may discourage browsing, but some wildlife may to take a liking to the patio.  Another option is to surround pansies and other “deer candy” with less palatable plants.

Sharing the garden

Plant Selection - If hungry enough, wildlife will eat any plant.  There are a number of attractive plants, though, that are rarely browsed.  They include tough xeric plants (black-eyed susans and purple coneflower), fragrant plants (lavender, thyme, and Russian sage), fuzzy plants (lambs ear and lady’s mantle), and spiny or bristly plants (oriental poppies, rugosa roses, and oregon grape).  See CSU Extension Fact Sheet # 6.520 – Preventing Deer Damage for more plant ideas.

Garden management - According to Ruth Rogers Clausen in 50 Beautiful Deer-Resistant Plants, gardeners should cut back on nitrogen fertilizer and water, ingredients for a lush and soft garden that deer prefer.  As the weather becomes dryer, deer also seek out moisture in newly watered plants, so irrigation should be timed such that plants are dry before dawn and dusk, times when most browsing occurs. 

Other ways to deter unwanted wildlife included the use of repellents and netting, but they are effective for only for brief periods of time.  Wind chimes and barking dogs may frighten off deer but will likely annoy the neighbors.  Of course, tall fencing is the best deterrent, but not suitable for my yard. 

With a few small changes in design, plant selection, and management, sharing my garden all season with all of nature may be possible. I hope so.

Vicky Barney gardens for wildlife and is a member of the Master Gardener Class of 2011.

Verbascum

Verbascum thapus (Common Mullein, noxious!)

by Cherie Luke

The genus Verbascum has some good garden plants and one noxious weed that should never be planted.  Verbascum thapus, also known as common mullein, is a member of the Scrophulariaceae, figwort family. Currently Verbascum thapus is on the “C” list of Noxious Weeds of Colorado.  This means it is already widespread throughout the state, and should at least be suppressed when possible. It is a biennial that reproduces by seed that can live up to 80 years. It is native to Asia but it is thought that it got here by way of Europe.

It has long furry leaves and a tall yellow flower stalk. It is well known among herbalists. Mullein tea is a treatment for respiratory problems such as asthma, bronchitis, and chest colds. Because it is a noxious weed, one can harvest unlimited quantities, but be sure that they have not been sprayed. The roots and seeds of this plant are toxic and should never be used for any reason.

Verbascum bombyciferum ‘Polarsommer’

Because of Verbascum’s  stately presence many people admire this plant. There  are about 300 species of Verbascum and some are considered “well behaved” in the home garden. There are some growing at Denver Botanic Gardens such as Verbascum bombyciferum ‘Polarsommer’, Arctic Summer Mullein.

Verbascum olympicum, Olympic Mullein

There was a Verbascum ‘Southern Charm’ that I found for sale at the May, Denver Botanic Gardens plant sale this year in the “Grown at the Garden” section that is describes as being pastel shades of lavender, buff, cream, and rose. The plant tag says full sun, dry to medium well drained soil, drought tolerant, zone 5-8, so I'm giving it a try. 

Verbascum ‘Southern Charm’ 

With so many beautiful and stately Verbascum’s available, there may be one that is just right for your own garden – except for the noxious weed!